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I like to travel routes unknown, not for snobbery or thirst for distinguish myself, but simply because i like to follow my thought and my instict in the wake of curiosity.


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BLUMARINE CELEBRATES ITS FIRST 40TH ANNIVERSARY: then we remember Anna Molinari through her collaboration with TIM WALKER.

BLUMARINE CELEBRATES ITS FIRST 40TH ANNIVERSARY: then we remember Anna Molinari through her collaboration with TIM WALKER.

Tim Walker for creating a feminine, romantic and sensual world.

I was a young girl and I dreamed in front the advertising campaigns of Tim Walker for Blumarine.

Blumarine this year celebrates its first 40th anniversary with the volume ANNA MOLINARI, BLUMARINE, narrating the history of Anna Molinari and the Blumarine brand. Through a selection of images shot by charismatic photographers of the likes of Helmut Newton, Tim Walker and Craig McDean, fashion editor such as Manuela Pavesi and art director as M/M Paris, some keywords are analysed to extensively explain the elements of Blumarine’s style, edited by Maria Luisa Frisa.

Tim Walker’s pictures are obviously my favorite. I think the photographer has represented Blumarine’s worl wirh a style that is feminine, romantic and sensual, adjectives used by the brand right from the early years of its creation.

It’s no coincidence that the rose is the symbol of the fashion designer.

Blumarine has become synonymous with fashion created for the modern woman, characterized by a sensual femininity and timeless romanticism, with a vibrant edge. Anna Molinari, known as “the queen of roses” because of her love for the flower.

Growth and success on the market have been simultaneous with ongoing development of the brand, increasingly apparent in the latest collections with a higher profile and products tending increasingly towards total luxury and with a development of an entire range of accessories as an addition to the rest of the fashion collection, creating a complete range.

Blumarine was established by Anna Molinari and Gianpaolo Tarabini in 1977, in the town of Carpi, in the province of Modena. The name was inspired by the couple’s favourite colour and their love of the sea. In 1980 they made their first appearance at Modit in Milan. where Blumarine was named Designer of the Year, which led to their first show at Milan Fashion week the following year.

The 1986 Milan Fashion Week saw the first collection wholly designed by Anna Molinari.

Then a review of the various campaigns that Tim Walker has created for the designer.


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FASHION and FILM for DISCOVERING an OLD ARTISAN CRAFT: THE EMBROIDERER . CHANEL and a FRENCH FILM “A COMMON THREAD,” allow you to discover the behind the scenes of HAUTE COUTURE.

FASHION & FILM for DISCOVERING an OLD ARTISAN CRAFT: THE EMBROIDERER .
CHANEL and a FRENCH FILM “A COMMON THREAD,” allow you to discover the behind the scenes of HAUTE COUTURE.

“The couturier is the architect and we [embroiderers] are the decorators” – François Lesage

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CHANEL Spring-Summer 2015 Haute Couture Collection

Those who follow my blog you know that I am a passionate fan and addicted to the world of fashion, but not for his side shallow but I’m always careful to the aesthetic and artistic of this world.

Also because visually the most interesting things in terms of creative direction, scenography are inspired by fashion and not the opposite.

I consider fashion like ART. For this when I can I try to collaborate with this industry for creating scenography for fashion show. I’ve already talked about incredible set design and haute coutire collection that every year THE KAISER Mr. Karl Lagerfeld has created with his genius.haute-couture-ateliers

The work behind Haute Couture is something extraordinary and unimaginable. This year another time with the last show Karl has amazed me.There are currently 5 or 6 major embroidery ateliers in Paris. At the end of World War II their number stood at 40.
To save them from becoming extinct, Chanel and Dior have been acquiring ateliers since the 1980s.
Apart from unveiling the behind-the-scenes of haute couture, the relationships between the couturier (designer), the artisan and the client is the focus on this work. “The couturier is the architect and we are the decorators,” said the late embroiderer François Lesage. What he didn’t say is that the process only really starts with the client. Samples are shown to her for approval and may be altered according to her wishes. Once she’s given the green light, the garment is made, partly in the ateliers and partly in the main fashion house.
broderies-vermontThen it occurred to me a beautiful film which tells the story of a girl whose job is precisely the EMBROIDERER: A COMMON THREAD, (French Title : BRODEUSES).

This is the first feature film directed by Éléonore Faucher, who co-wrote the screenplay with Gaëlle Macé. It was shown at the 2004 Cannes Film Festival and was selected by the Film Society of Lincoln Center and the Museum of Modern Art for inclusion in the 2005 edition of New Directors/New Films.

In Eleonore Faucher’s film, A COMMON THREAD, Lola Naymark plays Claire, a 17-year-old farmer’s daughter whose greatest passion is embroidery.
This film touched me with eerie dream sequences, the film casts a strange spell that’s enhanced by the rhythmic, almost sensual depiction of the painstaking art of embroidery.

1Claire has left her father’s farm and lives in a small studio in town; she works in the local supermarket, but spends all her time designing her intricate patterns. She has a problem, though. She’s pregnant. Claire’s best friend, Lucile, has moved away from the town, but she returns briefly to see her brother, Guillaume, Thomas Laroppe, who is recovering from a motorcycle accident in which his best friend was killed.

 

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Common Thread film (2006)

Through this connection, Claire meets the dead man’s mother, Madame Melikian, Ariane Ascaride, who designs magnificent embroideries for the smart shops in Paris.

This very simple story is imbued with a delicate intimacy thanks to the subtle treatment by director Faucher. A bond forms between these two women.

The film is extremely beautiful, not just in its images of the wonderful embroidery these women create, but in the faces of the characters, particularly the very expressive Lola Naymark.
I hope I have intrigued you on this topic and I show you some pictures from this film and a making of about latest chanel fashion show a few days ago.

See the making of the Spring-Summer 2015 Haute Couture collection and film Trailer.

 

 


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WHEN FASHION IS NOT ONLY CLOTHES: FRANCO MOSCHINO a visionary genius who scored the way to communicate in the ’80s

f (11)Franco Moschino was a true genius that has marked the history of fashion and communication in the ’80s years until early ’90s..

He was one of the symbols of Made in Italy first student of the Academy of Brera and then Milanese illustrator for Versace and Cadette with whom he also worked as a designer, (he was also an expert tailor) and liked to make visual puns demonstrates from the beginning of his career, which began in 1983, when it launches his first collection in Milan, a visionary talent and genius, also strongly influenced by the Dadaist movement.

Moschino and his fashion label became famous for his innovative, colorful – sometimes eccentric – designs, for his criticisms of the fashion industry and for his social awareness campaigns.

Then one looks into some of his most popular slogans one understands how a man can make it in the world of luxury using means that could be called anti-luxury, anti-fashionable and anti-commercial. Here are some of them: “Good taste doesn’t exist”, “Stop the fashion system”, “A good copy is better than a bad original”, “Warning: fashion shows can be dangerous to your health”, among others. Like his attitude to creativity itself, the attitude of the designer to public presentations and advertisement campaigns is mischievous, ironic, critical and unconventional. He experimented and showed in practice that elegance can successfully be displaced by extravagance. And when he was sick and tired of the repetitive catwalking of models and realized the banal stir around every review, he stopped showing fashion in this way and preferred to launch his new ideas through video films and multimedia. (L.Stoykov)f (9)

He was a lover of improvisation and freedom, in all its forms, the designer says he does invent anything new, personally cared with his close collaborator, Lida Castelli, advertising campaigns.

f (6)“I’m not a fashion designer,” Moschino declared. “I’m a painter, a decorator. I’m not the author of a new era.”
Campaigns remaining epic in the history of fashion and communication. He used shows as theater, and humor as marketing his art. His collaborators say he was so rich but ran in Milan with his usually Fiat fiorino, always full of things.

Yet he claimed he was in conflict with the system that produced fashion because it shamefully disregarded modern society. Moschino chose a life surrounded by mere essentials, while he provided financial support to his favorite charities, including drug rehabilitation programs and a pediatric hospice for children suffering with HIV/AIDS. In 1995, Fondazione Moschino established an organization called Smile, which offers assistance to children in developing countries.

Moschino, a fashion show produced by the highly regarded Aeffe SpA, attracted media attention for the designer’s persistence in appropriating garments as sign boards of irreverence and irony. In 1989, Moschino’s signature line, Couture, was introduced during the “XX Olympics of Fashion.”

Famous also for his new Collection in 1988 MOSCHINO CHEAP and CHIC, with Olivia protagonist, women’s secondary line.

After Moschino’s untimely death, Rossella Jardini, his former assistant, became creative director.

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TIM WALKER for BLUMARINE and VALENTINO for creating imaginary worlds..

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                 Tim Walker

The fashion week in Milan is starting. Poker of my favorite Italian designers is composed of Blumarine, Antonio Marras, Valentino and Alberta Ferretti. All of these designers have as a common passion for a romantic and poetic style at the same time with elegance.

Artistic elements that you can in the photographs of the GREAT TIM WALKER, one of my favourite of all times. English man, one of the most talented photographers in the last few years, Tim Walker in every picture tells a great story, evokes dreamscapes and fairy-tale.

Born in 1970 ,Tim Walker lives in London. He approaches the world of photography before attending college, working to the archive of Cecil Beaton at the Condé Nast Library in London.  He graduated at Exeter College of Art in 1994 and worked as a photographer’s assistant in London before moving to New York to attend full-time photographer Richard Avedon. Once back in England he devoted himself to portraiture and documentary work, until you arrive at Vogue, where he made his first service at the age of 25.
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                 Tim Walker

Walker staged his first major exhibition at the Design Museum, London in 2008. This coincided with the release of his book ‘PICTURES’ published by teNeues. In 2010 Walker’s first short film, The Lost Explorer (BBC Films, 2010) was premiered at Locarno Film Festival in Switzerland.

Now he  regularly shoots for Vogue, WMagazine and Love Magazine. Each shot is a meticulous and careful research of scenography, set design and props. He collaborated with the set designer SHONA HEATH  one of Britain’s leading creative directors and set designers, whose prolific work in fashion imagery has, for the last 10 years, encompassed disciplines such as photography, film making and fine art.

It is no coincidence that Tim Walker collaborated to create advertising campaigns of two of my favorite designers: Valentino and Blumarine his early career. Then I show you pictures about these campaigns.

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                 Tim Walker for RED VALENTINO, spring 2013

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               Tim Walker for Blumarine Adv

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               Tim Walker for Blumarine Adv

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               Tim Walker for Blumarine Adv

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               Tim Walker for Blumarine Adv

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               Tim Walker for Blumarine Adv

             


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Movie and Fashion: Marion Cotillard – John Cameron Mitchell for DIOR

lady-grey-diorWhen the fashion meets the film. This is a clip from the fourth Dior mini–movie series starring Marion Cotillard, with the Kieslowski-like title of Lady Grey (there have already been Ladies Red, Blue, and Black). This commercial was released in December 2010 in the United Kingdom.

Each short is created by a different director using a particular city as the setting, and Grey sees John Cameron Mitchell (Hedwig and the Angry Inch, Shortbus) using London for the backdrop film, which also stars Sir Ian McKellen and The History Boys’s Russell Tovey.

Basically, it’s a tale of a showgirl, sparkle, and the secret stored inside her purse. Perfection of direction, cinematography , songs and great actors.

I really like this “Lady Dior Lady Grey London with Marion Cotillard” Commercial songs.

The first song which was used in the commercial ad of Dior is “Rock On” by English musician David Essex, and the second song is “Sweetest Thing There Is” by Canadian rock singer-songwriter Hawksley Workman.

Lady Grey London reveals what’s inside her bag – in a fantastical silent film by director John Cameron Mitchell, Lady Grey, playing a woman whose bag holds secrets and dreams… An emotional celebration of the iconic Lady Dior bag.