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I like to travel routes unknown, not for snobbery or thirst for distinguish myself, but simply because i like to follow my thought and my instict in the wake of curiosity.


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FASHION and FILM for DISCOVERING an OLD ARTISAN CRAFT: THE EMBROIDERER . CHANEL and a FRENCH FILM “A COMMON THREAD,” allow you to discover the behind the scenes of HAUTE COUTURE.

FASHION & FILM for DISCOVERING an OLD ARTISAN CRAFT: THE EMBROIDERER .
CHANEL and a FRENCH FILM “A COMMON THREAD,” allow you to discover the behind the scenes of HAUTE COUTURE.

“The couturier is the architect and we [embroiderers] are the decorators” – François Lesage

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CHANEL Spring-Summer 2015 Haute Couture Collection

Those who follow my blog you know that I am a passionate fan and addicted to the world of fashion, but not for his side shallow but I’m always careful to the aesthetic and artistic of this world.

Also because visually the most interesting things in terms of creative direction, scenography are inspired by fashion and not the opposite.

I consider fashion like ART. For this when I can I try to collaborate with this industry for creating scenography for fashion show. I’ve already talked about incredible set design and haute coutire collection that every year THE KAISER Mr. Karl Lagerfeld has created with his genius.haute-couture-ateliers

The work behind Haute Couture is something extraordinary and unimaginable. This year another time with the last show Karl has amazed me.There are currently 5 or 6 major embroidery ateliers in Paris. At the end of World War II their number stood at 40.
To save them from becoming extinct, Chanel and Dior have been acquiring ateliers since the 1980s.
Apart from unveiling the behind-the-scenes of haute couture, the relationships between the couturier (designer), the artisan and the client is the focus on this work. “The couturier is the architect and we are the decorators,” said the late embroiderer François Lesage. What he didn’t say is that the process only really starts with the client. Samples are shown to her for approval and may be altered according to her wishes. Once she’s given the green light, the garment is made, partly in the ateliers and partly in the main fashion house.
broderies-vermontThen it occurred to me a beautiful film which tells the story of a girl whose job is precisely the EMBROIDERER: A COMMON THREAD, (French Title : BRODEUSES).

This is the first feature film directed by Éléonore Faucher, who co-wrote the screenplay with Gaëlle Macé. It was shown at the 2004 Cannes Film Festival and was selected by the Film Society of Lincoln Center and the Museum of Modern Art for inclusion in the 2005 edition of New Directors/New Films.

In Eleonore Faucher’s film, A COMMON THREAD, Lola Naymark plays Claire, a 17-year-old farmer’s daughter whose greatest passion is embroidery.
This film touched me with eerie dream sequences, the film casts a strange spell that’s enhanced by the rhythmic, almost sensual depiction of the painstaking art of embroidery.

1Claire has left her father’s farm and lives in a small studio in town; she works in the local supermarket, but spends all her time designing her intricate patterns. She has a problem, though. She’s pregnant. Claire’s best friend, Lucile, has moved away from the town, but she returns briefly to see her brother, Guillaume, Thomas Laroppe, who is recovering from a motorcycle accident in which his best friend was killed.

 

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Common Thread film (2006)

Through this connection, Claire meets the dead man’s mother, Madame Melikian, Ariane Ascaride, who designs magnificent embroideries for the smart shops in Paris.

This very simple story is imbued with a delicate intimacy thanks to the subtle treatment by director Faucher. A bond forms between these two women.

The film is extremely beautiful, not just in its images of the wonderful embroidery these women create, but in the faces of the characters, particularly the very expressive Lola Naymark.
I hope I have intrigued you on this topic and I show you some pictures from this film and a making of about latest chanel fashion show a few days ago.

See the making of the Spring-Summer 2015 Haute Couture collection and film Trailer.

 

 


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MASTER OF SET/COSTUME DESIGN-SCENOGRAPHY part 1: LILA DE NOBILI

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Vogue 1949

I’m often surprised how many young students of sets and costume design do not know some historical masters of the scenography.
So I want to create a section on my blog about the masters of the past. Then I start with the incredible Lila De Nobili and her fantastic history and career.

Lila de Nobili (1916–2002) was a celebrated Italian fashion illustrator,and later stageand costume designer. She was noted for her work atVogue magazine, designing covers which are now classic pieces of fashion history.
Lila de Nobili was born at Lugano, Switzerland, on September 3 1916, to an Italian father and a Hungarian mother. Lila never went to school; instead she concentrated on drawing and painting.

She moved to Paris, in the 1930s she began designing clothes for French Haute Couture fashion houses.

She was well known on numerous European theatre and operatic stages in the 1950s and 1960s for her romantic settings and famous for working with Franco Zeffireli and Luchino Visconti at the Teatro alla Scala.

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Lila De Nobili – Violetta Costume for Maria Callas

In the 1950s, De Nobili started working with theatre and film director Luchino Visconti, and in1955 began creating the costumes for La Traviata at La Scala Opera House, Milan, with the renowned Maria Callas as Violetta. This work has been inspiraton for Catherine Martin and the costume for Nicole Kidman in Moulin Rouge.

Impressive was her pictorial trait, her illustrations reminiscent of paintings by Boldini and some impressionst painter.

In Britain, she won renown for six Shakespeare productions for the young Peter Hall at Stratford-on-Avon between 1957 and 1962.
She went on to work for Laurence Olivier at the National Theatre on Congreve’s Love for Love (1965); her sets were used again for a revival 20 years later.
She also worked at Covent Garden and Glyndebourne; dressed Maria Callas in La Traviata (1955), and designed costumes in Paris for Edith Piaf and Ingrid Bergman.

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Vogue _ 1946

Lila de Nobili also worked with Hall on Twelfth Night (1958) and The Two Gentlemen of Verona (1960). She dressed Audrey Hepburn for Gigi on Broadway and contributed to a number of Visconti productions.
In her final years, Lila de Nobili (died aged 85) became something of a recluse in Paris surrounded only by his cats. But she spent much of her time teaching painting to underprivileged children. She never married.

Lila De Nobili, costumes de cigarières pour Carmen de Bizet, 1959

Lila De Nobili, costumes de cigarières pour Carmen de Bizet, 1959

Lila De Nobili, costumes d’enfants et de soldats pour Carmen de Bizet, 1959

Lila De Nobili, costumes des enfants et de soldats pour Carmen de Bizet, 1959

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Maria Callas – Costume by Lila De Nobili for Traviata


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THE KING is BACK with an GREAT VISUAL ORGASM: David LaChapelle & Evening In Space for Daphne Guinness

THE KING is BACK: David LaChapelle & Evening In Space for Daphne Guinness

4It was too long time that we didn’t hear news about the legendary photographer David La Chapelle.

But now he is back with another of his perfect and powerful visual work as videomusic director: EVENING IN SPACE.

Daphne Guinness consolidates her move into music with a theatrical, mesmerising new music video directed by acclaimed image-maker David LaChapelle. Evening in Space was produced by Tony Visconti and is the first single from Guinness’ upcoming debut album, which is billed for release in September 2014. The video features custom fashion by many of Guinness’ favourite houses, including Iris van Herpen and Noritaka Tatehana, alongside pieces from her own celebrated clothing collection. Song Writing and Performance: Daphne Guinness Music Production: Tony Visconti

Evening in Space, featuring Daphne Guinness wearing Dress and Cuffs by Iris van Herpen, Bodysuit by Saint Laurent, Shoes by Noritaka Tatehana, Earrings by Loree Rodkin, and Headpiece by Laurent Philippon. Model wear    s Custom skirt by Jeremy Scott, Vintage boots, and headpiece by Kabuki.

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WHEN FASHION IS NOT ONLY CLOTHES: FRANCO MOSCHINO a visionary genius who scored the way to communicate in the ’80s

f (11)Franco Moschino was a true genius that has marked the history of fashion and communication in the ’80s years until early ’90s..

He was one of the symbols of Made in Italy first student of the Academy of Brera and then Milanese illustrator for Versace and Cadette with whom he also worked as a designer, (he was also an expert tailor) and liked to make visual puns demonstrates from the beginning of his career, which began in 1983, when it launches his first collection in Milan, a visionary talent and genius, also strongly influenced by the Dadaist movement.

Moschino and his fashion label became famous for his innovative, colorful – sometimes eccentric – designs, for his criticisms of the fashion industry and for his social awareness campaigns.

Then one looks into some of his most popular slogans one understands how a man can make it in the world of luxury using means that could be called anti-luxury, anti-fashionable and anti-commercial. Here are some of them: “Good taste doesn’t exist”, “Stop the fashion system”, “A good copy is better than a bad original”, “Warning: fashion shows can be dangerous to your health”, among others. Like his attitude to creativity itself, the attitude of the designer to public presentations and advertisement campaigns is mischievous, ironic, critical and unconventional. He experimented and showed in practice that elegance can successfully be displaced by extravagance. And when he was sick and tired of the repetitive catwalking of models and realized the banal stir around every review, he stopped showing fashion in this way and preferred to launch his new ideas through video films and multimedia. (L.Stoykov)f (9)

He was a lover of improvisation and freedom, in all its forms, the designer says he does invent anything new, personally cared with his close collaborator, Lida Castelli, advertising campaigns.

f (6)“I’m not a fashion designer,” Moschino declared. “I’m a painter, a decorator. I’m not the author of a new era.”
Campaigns remaining epic in the history of fashion and communication. He used shows as theater, and humor as marketing his art. His collaborators say he was so rich but ran in Milan with his usually Fiat fiorino, always full of things.

Yet he claimed he was in conflict with the system that produced fashion because it shamefully disregarded modern society. Moschino chose a life surrounded by mere essentials, while he provided financial support to his favorite charities, including drug rehabilitation programs and a pediatric hospice for children suffering with HIV/AIDS. In 1995, Fondazione Moschino established an organization called Smile, which offers assistance to children in developing countries.

Moschino, a fashion show produced by the highly regarded Aeffe SpA, attracted media attention for the designer’s persistence in appropriating garments as sign boards of irreverence and irony. In 1989, Moschino’s signature line, Couture, was introduced during the “XX Olympics of Fashion.”

Famous also for his new Collection in 1988 MOSCHINO CHEAP and CHIC, with Olivia protagonist, women’s secondary line.

After Moschino’s untimely death, Rossella Jardini, his former assistant, became creative director.

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WHEN FASHION IS NOT ONLY CLOTHES, BAGS AND SHOES, BUT ART and SHOW: CHANEL DOCET.

Karl lagerfeld is simply a genius, non only fashion designer but also scenographer, film director and photographer. He is the emblem of this.

Then I decided to reunite in this post the best set design of Chanel fashion shows of the last years.

Designer Karl Lagerfeld for every chanel fashion show completely transforme the Grand Palais, for example into a crystal fortress with huge spears made of mock-crystal filling the exhibition space or into an indian palace or frozen world.

ça va sans dire: a genius!called a KAISER!

chanel-show (1) chanel-show (2) British singer Lily Allen performs durin  chanel-show (5) chanel-show (6)

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YOH NAGAO: WHEN IN BERLIN ACCIDENTALLY YOU CAN DISCOVER AN INCREDIBLE TALENT.

Japanese pop collage artist Yoh Nagao’s first European solo exhibition in Berlin.

“I BELIEVE ART CAN CHANGE THE WORLD. I WANT TO CHANGE THE WORLD WITH MY ART AND MAKE IT A BETTER PLACE. WITH ART, I CONTINUE SMILING AND STAYING POSITIVE. AND I WANT TO GIVE THIS POSITIVE ENERGY TO PEOPLE WITH MY ART” by YOH NAGAO.

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Wonderful words impressed me when I read them, but mostly I can assure you that the intent of YOH “to donate positive energy with his art “ is fully achieved.

Today in Berlin was a gloomy day, but what a wonderful surprise to discover accidentally a talent and his wonderful work. They have given me interesting creative inspiration.I found his exhibition flyer walking in Prenzlauer Berg where in live , and I was so curious to see his operas.

His art pieces are an explosion of colours, energy, collage works which oscillate between the strength of bright colors and harmony of the compositions to create modern  wonderland that evoke me Marc Chagall in some way.

yoh_nagao8It’s not only pop art, too simple, it is much more! … Then if you will have the opportunity to see his pieces up close you can see incredible details.

I hope for this talent to break through and hear about him soon with a great success!

I work in the fashion show sometimes and I think Yho’s work has all credentials to become an artist well known into the communication of fashion system. (not surprising to see some of his boards on  vogue or for diesel! ). I hope for him one day!

Absolutely DON’T MISS this great opportunity to see Nagao’s art.

Yoh Nagao is a pop collage artist from Aichi Prefecture, Japan, who has been based in Berlin since April 2012.

In Nagao’s first European solo exhibition “Detour Through Wonderland”, he is showing previous works as well as recent pieces that incorporate themes he is most interested in expressing: our future as humans. In the wake of rapidly advancing modernization and an ever-shifting digitalized society, have our lives actually become any richer? Can we really experience more happiness and well-being? How do we move forward from here?
Nagao draws inspiration from minority tribes who remain isolated from civilized society.

At first glance, it appears that modern fashion magazines are unrelated to such tribes. But by drawing clues and inspiration from tribal lifestyles and costumes, Nagao’s juxtaposed fashion images create a ‘new primitive’ style: these images express an exciting ‘pop’ future for modern humans who have progressed from their tribal pasts to the digitalized, progressive lives they lead today.

 

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Detour Through Wonderland
Japanese artist Yoh Nagao will hold his first European solo exhibition
17th – 24th May 2014at ULA B        erlin Anklamer Strasse 8, 10115 Berlin
Open Tue – Sun 15:00 – 20:00
Closed on Mon

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FROM VAN GOGH to MONET PAINTING for LOUBOUTIN Shoes CAMPAIGN.

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   Camille Pissarro – Photo by Peter Lippmann – 2014

Every Year Louboutin Fashion brand creates impressive AD campaign. For several times collaborates with the Photograper PETER LIPPMANN and creates new advertisements inspired by  famous painter ( Van Gogh and Monet for example).

Photographer and artist Peter Lipmann continues the theme of the masterpieces of the world art in a new series for  Christian Louboutin. This time source of inspiration are impressionism’s masterpiece.

Peter Lippmann is a still life photographer who, though born in New York, has been living and working in Paris for the last 15 years. He has collaborated with the most famous French brands (Cartier, Guerlain, SFR Telecom, SNCF Rail, Pierre Gagnaire), as well as international brands such as Nicolas wines, Minute Maid, Chianti, Downy, Wilkinson Sword and is regularly published in magazines such as Vogue, New York Times Magazine, Marie Claire and Le Figaro.

I show you the latest campaign (2014) and also 2011, in this way you can see the same wonderful work well done for the shoes brand Louboutin.

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   Vincent van Gogh – Photo by Peter Lippmann – 2014

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   Cézanne – Photo by Peter Lippmann – 2014

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   Brueghel – Photo by Peter Lippmann – 2014

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   Henri Fantin-Latour – Photo by Peter Lippmann – 2014

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Peter Lippmann – Louboutin Campaign 2011

 

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Peter Lippmann – Louboutin Campaign 2011

 

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Peter Lippmann – Louboutin Campaign 2011

 

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Peter Lippmann – Louboutin Campaign 2011

 

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Peter Lippmann – Louboutin Campaign 2011

 

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Peter Lippmann – Louboutin Campaign 2011

 

Peter Lippmann is a still life photographer who, though born in New York, has been living and working in Paris for the last 15 years. He has collaborated with the most famous French brands (Cartier, Guerlain, SFR Telecom, SNCF Rail, Pierre Gagnaire), as well as international brands such as Nicolas wines, Minute Maid, Chianti, Downy, Wilkinson Sword and is regularly published in magazines such as Vogue, New York Times Magazine, Marie Claire and Le Figaro
Read more at http://acidcow.com/pics/1623-creative-by-peter-lippmann-126-photo.html#edDkAdrBvjdJiI43.99